Cliffs and mountains, dunes trapped in granite magma for millions of years, Capo Sant’Andrea captivates with spectacular contrasts.
The largest cape in the northwest of the island of Elba has always attracted people. As early as the Paleolithic Age, hunters roamed its forests and found plentiful game, as evidenced by the numerous meat-grinding tools that are tens of thousands of years old.
Much later, the Etruscans discovered the geographical advantages of the island’s tip. Representatives of an advanced civilization that engaged in long-distance trade long before the rise of Rome, the Etruscans saw what is now Capo Sant’Andrea as a strategic outpost in the Tyrrhenian Sea and a perfect refuge. Lined by high cliffs, the bay offered protection from attackers and stormy westerly winds. The Etruscans were masters of ironworking. The sandy soils of the cape are still littered with schiumoli, remnants of the process used to purify iron.
Treasure hunting
Two wrecks dating back to Roman times were accidentally discovered off Capo Sant’Andrea a few decades ago. The first rests on the seafloor near the coast at a depth of just 32 feet. The second lies 656 feet further out at a depth of 148 feet, where it has lain since the disaster occurred some 2,000 years ago. Some of the cargo has been recovered, including grinding stones for wheat and amphorae containing wine. These items can be seen in the island’s two archaeology museums. However, ultimately, the seabed at the cape has remained a “natural museum” for the ancient ships and the cargo that never made it to port.
A guardhouse high above the sea is a testament to the fear of the Ottomans, who were expanding into this part of the Mediterranean in the 16th century. However, a more important chapter of history for the island began in May of 1814.
French emperor
Napoleon dropped anchor off the coast of Elba aboard the battleship Undaunted. Following his devastating defeats, Austria, Russia, and Prussia forced him to resign as emperor of France in the Treaty of Fontainebleau. The deposed emperor was exiled to Elba, an island granted to him as a principality. He stayed there for ten months. He set up camp near the pilgrimage site of Capo Sant’Andrea. From the island’s highest point, he observed ship movements in the Tyrrhenian Sea. Meanwhile, he shared a tent in a chestnut grove with Maria Walewska, a Polish countess and his mistress, who was the mother of his son. However, for reasons of state policy, a shared future with his mistress was not an option for the power-hungry man who wanted to reclaim the throne. The couple spent their last days and nights together at Capo Sant’Andrea before parting ways forever.
Maurizio Testa believes that the magnificent Mediterranean landscape, with its hidden traces of human history and stories, makes the Cape an emotionally moving destination.
The hotelier, lecturer, and author has joined forces with restaurateurs, tour guides, and other professionals to establish the Capo Sant’Andrea Consortium. “We want to take control of marketing our area and excite the world about this special part of Elba,” says Testa. The bathing season at the cape extends into October. “But we want to encourage tourists to experience more and go exploring in the hinterland.”
There, a network of hiking trails crisscrosses the Monte Capanne massif. This mountain of igneous rock is the highest elevation in the Tuscan Archipelago. On a clear day, the view from its summit extends to Corsica and the Italian mainland coast. If you descend the northern slope to the tiny village of Poggio, you will soon reach the spring where Napoleon had drinking water delivered daily. The inhabitants of Elba have named the spring after him — the most famous man in the island’s history — Fonte Napoleone.
Its water is still a refreshing treat on the hike today. More info https://www.caposantandrea.it/en